Price, value retention, costs, where to buy
Price / Quality Level Tiers
Tier 1: Entry level mechanical watch tier (€100 - 500)
Typical movements found in this price range are from Japanese or Chinese origin:
- Seiko NH35 & NH36 (Pros: Longevity, shock resistance, cheap, reliable, hacking (seconds stop when pulling the crown, hand-winding to kick-start automatic winding; Cons: visual finishing, accuracy -35/+45 seconds/day). 3Hz, approx 41hr power reserve.
- Miyota 8215 (similar to Seiko NH35. 3Hz, 42hr power reserve. Noisy unidirectional rotor)
- Miyota 8316 (similar to Seiko NH35, 3Hz, 60hr power reserve. Noisy unidirectional rotor)
- Miyota 9015 / 9039 (more premium entry level at 4Hz and exceptionally thin at 3.9mm. Noisy unidirectional rotor)
- Sea-Gull ST2130: a Chinese made architectural clone of the famous Swiss ETA 2824-2 movement. 4Hz, 42hr power reserve. Cheap. Cons: finishing can heavily vary depending on the quality control of the watch brand casing the movement.
- Meca-Quartz hybrid movements
Most common manufacturers offering watches in this price range:
- Japanese conglomerates: Orient, Seiko, Citizen
- Timex,
- Chinese manaufacturers: Sea-Gull, Homage microbrands (San Martin, Baltany, Cronos, Addiesdive, Steeldive,...)
Design, materials and finishing:
- Mass industrial production using non-premium materials
- Cheap dials: basic dull design / standard painted matte or sunburst brass. (exceptions: e.g. Seiko Presage models with dials punching above price class)
- Cases: bulky, mostly machines brushed 316L stainless steel with basic polished bevels, edges occassionally can feel sharp
- Bracelets: sharp edges, hair pulling (poor tolerances leave small gaps between links which painfully trap and pinch hair during arm movement), hollow end links leaving a loose gap between watch case and bracelet causing rattle noise, folded metal links made by stamping and folding thin sheets of steel , stamped metal clasps which easily bend out of shape and feel flimsy, friction closures requiring brute physical pressure to close wear down over time and cane suddenly pop open; lack of micro-adjustments)
- Straps: fake or cheap leather
- Hour markers / numerals: often printed or use stamped. if applied not always accurately applied, poorly finished
- Bezels not always accurately centered at 12hr point.
- Hands: not always accurately centered at 12hr point, limited lumen
- Crystal: sapphire is common but usually lacks premium multi-layer anti-reflective coating
Tier 2: The Enthusiast & Microbrand tier (€600 - 1'500)
The sweet spot for independent microbrands and entry-level Swiss heritage houses with original design, quality watch movements of Swiss or Japanese origin.
Typical movements found in this price range are:
- Swiss standard grade movements Sellita SW200-1, ETA 2824-2
- Swiss Tissot / Hamilton movements (Powermatic 80)
- Japanese Miyota 9015 / 9039 (more premium entry level at 4Hz and exceptionally thin at 3.9mm. Noisy unidirectional rotor)
Most common manufacturers offering watches in this price range, which SMYW recommends:
- Swiss: Hamilton, Alpina, Atlantic, Frederique Constant, Hamilton, Mido, Tissot
- Microbrands / Swiss independent: Armand Nicolet, Baltic, Depancel, Doxa, Farer, Formex, Sinn, Unimatic, Vulcain, Yema, Zodiac
- Japan: Seiko
Design, materials and finishing:
- Dials: feature interesting textures like sunburst, sandblasted, enamel-like lacquer or sandwhich constructions
- Cases: high-grade 316L stainless steel with clean finishing (satin brushing / mirror polishing)
- Bracelets: with screwed links and solid milled clasps, occasionally with quick micro-adjustments
- Straps: qualitative premium leather
- Numerals / hour markers: cleanly applied with diamond-cut edges and premium Super-LumiNova
- Crystal: double domed sapphire with underside AR coating
Tier 3: The Best value-for-money high quality tier (€1'500 - 5'000)
The best value-for-money price range for obtaining high quality watches covering all important areas: design, movement, materials, finishing, uniqueness, brand reputation, value retention. Above this price range, the extra cost provides diminishing marginal increments in build quality.
Typical movements found in this price range:
- Swiss premium regulated movements (top grade Sellita / ETA)
- Swiss / German entry-level Elaboré in-house calibers (Tudor, Longines, Nomos)
- Swiss Chronomter-certified (COSC) accurate to -4/+6 seconds / day
- Additional watch movement complications
- Finishing: blued screws, rotor decorated, rhodium plating
Most common manufacturers offering watches in this price range, which SMYW recommends:
- Swiss: Longines, Tudor, Alpina, Armand Nicolet, Baume & Mercier, Eberhard & Co, Formex, Frederique Constant, Hamilton, Oris, Vulcain
- German: Hanhart, Junghans, Meistersinger, NOMOS, Union Glashutte, Sinn
- UK: Christopher Ward
Design, materials and finishing:
- Dials: feature interesting textures like sunburst, sandblasted, enamel-like lacquer, sandwich constructions, deep guilloché patterns, genuine porcelain
- Cases: high-grade stainless steel with clean finishing (satin brushing / mirror polishing)
- Bracelets: top-tier bracelets with push-button micro-adjust clasps
- Straps: qualitative premium leather
- Numerals / hour markers: highly polished, faceted applied that catch the light dynamically
- Crystal: double domed sapphire with double sided AR coating
Tier 4: Core Luxury & Entry haute manufacture tier (€5'000 - 15'000)
This tier represents the pinnacle of globally recognized luxury, where consumers pay for elite brand heritage, complete in-house engineering and strict mechanical mastery.
Typical movements found in this price range:
- Exclusively in-house, proprietary manufacture calibers
- Highly regulated to strict internal or Chronometer standards that far exceed standard COSC-certification
- Elaborate complications
Manufacturers recommended by SMYW in this price range:
- Swiss: Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Rolex, Cartier, IWC, Zenith, Blancpain, Breitling, Bulgari, Carl F.Bucherer, Chanel, Chopard, Chronoswiss, Dubois et Fils, Eberhard & Co, Franck Muller, Girard-Perregaux, Hermes, Louis Erard, Louis Vuitton, Panerai, Piaget, Tag Heuer, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin,
- Swiss entry haute manufacture tier: Vacheron Constantin
- German: Glashutte Original
- Japanese: Grand Seiko
- Chinese: Atelier Wen
Design, materials and finishing:
- A blend of highly advanced machining and meticulous hand-finishing
- Dials: works of art, utilizing intricate, multi-layered textures, deep guilloché patterns
- Cases: high-grade stainless steel (316L or better 904L), Titanium grade 5, with clean finishing (satin brushing / mirror polishing)
- Bracelets: top-tier bracelets, links pivot effortlessly with zero vertical or horizontal play, using internal ceramic sleeves to prevent the metal from "stretching" over decades of wear. Clasps are heavy, beautifully milled with push-button micro-adjust clasps
- Straps: qualitative premium leather
- Numerals / hour markers: highly polished, faceted applied that catch the light dynamically
- Crystal: double domed sapphire with double sided AR coating
Cost of Import
If you purchase a watch in another country and import it into your country, you might incur incremental costs of import.
Example 1: you live in the European Union (EU) and want to import a watch you purchased for USD 5'000 from outside the EU via a courier (DHL / UPS, Fedex or alike)
Total Import Costs = Import Duty + Import VAT + Freight & Custom brokerage fees
e.g. Buyer lives in Belgium where: Import Duty is 4.5% but capped at € 0.8 per watch model; local VAT = 21%, DHL freight cost = € 50 + 2.75% of the advanced duty/VAT (with a minimum of €15)
Total import Cost = Duty + Import VAT + Freight courier brokerage fee
Duty = 0.8 (this cap is the same for every of the 27 member states of the EU)
Import VAT = 21% * (5000 + 50 + 0.8) = 1'060.67
Courier Brokerage fee = 2.75% x (0.8 + 1'060.67) = 29.19
Total incremental cost of import = 1'090.66 = 21.81% of the watch (i.e. marginally higher than the local country VAT)
Total Cost of watch = 5'000 + freight 50 + 1'090duty 0.8 + VAT 1060.67 + DHL fee 29.19 = including import = € 6'111.46
Cost of Ownership
Purchase price
Servicing
Every 3 - 10 years
€150 (simple) → €1,000+ (complex)
Insurance ( annual cost between 0.5% and 2% of the watch's value)
Optional but recommended for watches > €5k
New vs Pre-Owned
New
Warranty,
peace of mind
Higher price
Pre-owned
Better value
Requires due diligence
Where to Buy New
Authorized mono-brand dealers: full warranty
Authorized multi-brand (watch) shops
Grey market: 20–30% discount, no official warranty
Microbrands: direct online
Where to Buy Pre-Owned - what to pay attention to
Chrono24CatawikieBaySpecialised second-hand watch shops / dealers
Checklist
Seller reputation
Papers & box
Service history
Authenticity
Chrono24
Chrono24 is the world's largest online marketplace dedicated to watches, offering access to +655'000 (as of June 2026) new, pre-owned, and vintage watches from both professional dealers and private sellers.
Advantages
1. Vast Selection
- Access to hundreds of thousands of watches from brands ranging from entry-level luxury to haute horlogerie.
- Excellent for finding discontinued, rare, vintage, or hard-to-source models.
2. Competitive Pricing
- Easy comparison of prices from multiple sellers globally.
- Often cheaper than buying from authorized dealers, especially for pre-owned watches.
- Possibility to negotiate with some sellers through the platform.
3. Buyer Protection & Escrow Service
- Payment is normally held in escrow until the buyer confirms receipt and satisfaction.
- Reduces the risk of outright fraud compared to direct bank transfers.
- Chrono24 labels reliable Dealers as Certified Partners
- Chrono24 offers possibility to have watches checked (at a $249 cost) and certified for authenticity, functionality, not being listed as stolen
4. Transparency
- Historical price trends and market data are available for many models.
- Seller ratings, reviews, transaction history, and response times help evaluate credibility.
5. International Access
- Ability to purchase watches from sellers worldwide, dramatically increasing the available inventory.
Disadvantages
1. Authenticity Risk Remains
- While rare, counterfeit watches, non-original parts, or undisclosed modifications can occasionally slip through.
- Buyer protection does not replace a professional inspection.
2. Condition May Differ from Expectations
- Photos may not fully reveal scratches, polishing, bracelet stretch, or service issues.
- Vintage watches are particularly vulnerable to description discrepancies.
3. Import Duties and VAT
- Buying outside your customs area can trigger significant additional costs.
- For example, an Italian buyer importing from Switzerland, the UK, Japan, or the USA may face VAT, customs duties, and courier handling fees.
4. Return Rights Vary
- Professional dealers usually offer return periods.
- Private sellers often provide limited or no return rights.
5. Service History Often Uncertain
- A watch may be described as "running well" while still requiring a costly overhaul shortly after purchase.
Best Practices before buying:
- Prefer professional dealers with hundreds of positive reviews.
- Request high-resolution photos of the dial, movement, caseback, clasp, and serial/reference numbers.
- Verify whether the watch includes original box, papers, service records, and warranty.
- For several, not all watches, you can successfully negotiate the price for a watch down by 20 to 10% by simply offering a price which is 20% lower than the asking price.
- Check total landed cost (watch price + shipping + insurance + VAT + customs duties).
- For purchases above €5,000, consider having the watch inspected by a trusted watchmaker immediately after receipt.
Overall Assessment
For an informed buyer, Chrono24 is generally one of the safest and most efficient places to buy luxury watches online. Its escrow system and large dealer network substantially reduce risk compared with private forums or classified ads. However, it should be viewed as a marketplace rather than a guarantee of authenticity or condition. Due diligence remains essential, particularly for vintage watches, independent brands, and high-value purchases. A cautious buyer can often obtain better selection and pricing than through traditional retail channels, while accepting a somewhat higher level of risk.
Catawiki
Catawiki is an online auction platform where professional dealers and private individuals sell watches through timed auctions. It is particularly popular for affordable luxury, vintage, and collector watches.
Advantages
- Potential bargains: Auctions occasionally result in prices below market value, especially for lesser-known brands.
- Curated listings: Watches are reviewed before listing, which helps filter out some problematic items.
- Wide variety: Good selection of vintage, collectible, and unusual watches not commonly found at retailers.
- Buyer protection: Payment is held by Catawiki until the transaction is completed.
Disadvantages
- Buyer's premium: Winning bidders pay an additional fee (typically around 9%) on top of the hammer price, plus shipping costs.
- Time invested in search, bidding, waiting is lost when there is no transaction when another person overbid you
- Limited inspection: Buyers must rely on photos and descriptions, which may not reveal all defects.
- Authenticity and condition risk: Expert review is helpful but not equivalent to a full technical inspection or authentication.
- Returns can be more complicated: Particularly when dealing with private sellers or disputes over condition.
- Auction pressure: Competitive bidding can lead buyers to overpay relative to market value.
Overall Assessment
Catawiki is often a good platform for watches under €2,000–€3,000, vintage pieces, and collectors looking for unusual models. For higher-value purchases, buyers should exercise caution, carefully review photos and descriptions, factor in the buyer's premium, and compare the total cost against market prices available elsewhere. While bargains can be found, the overall buying experience generally involves more uncertainty than purchasing from an established dealer or through Chrono24.
eBay
eBay is one of the largest online marketplaces in the world and offers an large selection of new, pre-owned, vintage, and collectible watches from both dealers and private sellers.
Advantages
- Huge selection: Excellent source for everything from affordable watches to rare vintage and luxury pieces.
- Competitive pricing: Auctions and fixed-price listings can provide attractive deals.
- Authenticity Guarantee: Many luxury watches are covered by eBay's authentication service, where the watch is inspected by independent experts before reaching the buyer.
- Strong buyer protection: eBay generally offers robust dispute resolution and refund mechanisms when items differ significantly from their description.
- Global marketplace: Access to sellers worldwide increases the chances of finding rare references.
Disadvantages
- Variable seller quality: Seller expertise and honesty can vary significantly.
- Counterfeit risk: Although reduced by authentication programs, fake or modified watches still appear, especially in lower-priced listings not covered by authentication.
- Condition uncertainty: Photos may not fully reveal wear, over-polishing, water damage, or mechanical issues.
- Import costs: International purchases may incur VAT, customs duties, and courier fees.
- Auction dynamics: Emotional bidding can push prices above fair market value.
Overall Assessment
eBay can be an excellent platform for experienced watch buyers who are willing to research sellers, compare prices, and scrutinize listings carefully. Its authentication service for eligible luxury watches significantly improves safety, making it one of the more attractive alternatives to Chrono24. However, buyers should remain cautious when purchasing vintage watches, watches without original papers, or listings from sellers with limited transaction history. For many enthusiasts, eBay offers the best combination of selection, buyer protection, and potential value—provided due diligence is performed.
Specialized second-hand watch shops / dealers
Specialized second-hand watch dealers offer pre-owned luxury and collector watches through a physical storefront, allowing buyers to inspect and try on a watch before purchasing.
Advantages
- Inspect before buying: You can examine the watch in person, check its condition, size, comfort, and overall appearance.
- Professional expertise: Reputable dealers often authenticate, inspect, and sometimes service watches before offering them for sale.
- Lower fraud risk: The risk of counterfeits or undisclosed issues is generally lower than when buying from private sellers.
- After-sales support: Many dealers provide a warranty (typically 6–24 months) and may assist with servicing or future trade-ins.
- Negotiation opportunities: Prices are often negotiable, particularly for higher-value watches.
Disadvantages
- Higher prices: Dealer margins, shop rent, and servicing costs usually make prices higher than those from private sellers.
- Limited selection: Inventory is restricted to what the shop currently has in stock.
- Variable expertise: Not all dealers possess the same level of horological knowledge or quality standards.
- Pressure to buy: Some shops use sales tactics that may encourage quicker purchasing decisions.
Overall Assessment
For most buyers, especially those new to collecting, a reputable local second-hand watch dealer offers one of the safest purchasing channels. The ability to physically inspect the watch, receive professional advice, and benefit from a warranty often justifies paying a modest premium. While prices may be slightly higher than on online marketplaces such as Chrono24 or eBay, the reduction in risk and the opportunity to assess the watch in person provide significant value. For purchases above €3,000–€5,000, many collectors consider a trusted specialist dealer to be among the most secure buying options available.
